Written by Jody Zagger
The Pacific Coast of Mexico has a lot to offer, but my favorite spot is the city of Puerto Vallarta (PVR). This charming village sits on the Bay of Banderas and, in my opinion, has sunsets that rival Santorini’s famous, crowd-cheering spectacles. My first visit was in 1999, and I’ve been there about a dozen or so times since. I have stayed all along the bay—sometimes 2 different areas within the same trip! I love Mexico in general and have other go-to spots, but the magic of this enchanting town keeps calling me back. 
The bay is shaped like a backwards “C”, and Puerto Vallarta proper is the crown jewel sitting right in the center. The then-sleepy beach town was made famous in the 1960s by Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton when they were filming Night of the Iguana there. Both actors were very publicly cheating on their then-spouses while on set, and it caused a flurry of paparazzi to descend upon the area; so that was the end of that little gem staying hidden. It doesn’t take longer than one sunset over the bay in this romantic place to see why tourists have been flocking there ever since.
My favorite thing about this little slice of paradise is that it has a wide variety of things to offer. When people think of going on vacation in Mexico, they tend to picture days of never leaving an all-inclusive resort. But Puerto Vallarta has everything from lazy beach days, fine dining, and shopping to whale watching, sunset cruises, and jungle zip lining. It’s a fully-cultural city set on a tranquil bay that rises up into the hills of the Sierra Madre mountains. Sure, you could stay in a resort and never leave the property, but you would cheat yourself out of all the wonders this special place has to offer.
Where to stay?
5 star resorts, boutique hotels, all-inclusive plans, beach-front or up in the hills, AirBnB …you name it, PVR has it. Along with fantastic service and food—being in the hospitality industry for over 20 years—those are things I value deeply in a travel destination. I happen to prefer the charm of a boutique hotel and being a short distance to the old town area. One of my favorite places I’ve stayed is Costa Sur; it’s a quick bus or uber ride into the ‘old town’ area but far enough away from the party to feel peaceful and secluded. Wherever you do stay, it’s worth the extra dough for an oceanfront balcony. Did I mention the sunsets? If the rates are low enough, I also love getting an all-inclusive plan so that breakfasts/ lunches/ pool snacks and drinks are easy; and I don’t feel bad ditching out to go off property for dinner. My lodging goals are to stay at Hotel Mousai someday!
Where to eat and drink?
There are plenty of fantastic restaurants in Puerto Vallarta. Here are a few of my favorites:
- Fajita Republic is a casual and charming spot in Old Town with amazing—you guessed it—fajitas.
- El Palomar de los Gonzalez is a family-owned-residence turned amazing restaurant-and-bar up in the hills.
Go for sunset views of the bay and an upscale dinner with great service. There are a string of bars along the beach in old town that are fun for happy hour/sunset-viewing, too.
- Las Palapa’s for oceanfront fine dining
- Casa Tradicional for authentic Mexican (with mariachi!)
Definitely order the ‘mexican coffee’ at any fine dining restaurant, and you’re sure to be dazzled by the show and taste!
Have drinks at Andale’s after dinner at least once. You’re bound to see a bride on a donkey—I’m still not sure what exactly this tradition involves—and plenty of expats and tourists mixed in with locals dancing the night away. There are several jazz clubs and quieter spots for the less energetic, as well. The area is loaded with expats from US and Canada and is LGTBQIA-friendly and safe. So many hidden gems. Best advice? Go exploring and find your favorites!
What to do?
My favorite time to be in Puerto Vallarta is December through March when it’s whale season. Banderas Bay is the northern breeding ground for the humpback whale, so whale watching is a must! I will never forget the first time I saw a whale rise out of the water next to our boat or snorkeled and heard the whale songs under the water. I’ve even heard tales of people seeing whales spout or breach from the shore! Of course you must see the Malecon, the main promenade downtown along the water. There are many shops and restaurants along the city side, as well as art and sculptures along the water side.
There is a famous beautiful church just up the street; its bell tower is an iconic part of the Puerto Vallarta landscape. Plan to go there in the late afternoon to have time to take it all in, and then just stay for dinner.
If you can, find the tiny circular al fresco bar that is down what looks like an alley but is actually a market entrance near the northern start of the Malecon. To this day I do not know the name of it; but it only has about 6 bar stools, and there are always friendly people there. They have giant margaritas that are worth it. Pro tip: you can get one to go!
Visiting a Tequila distillery is always fun and so is a day trip to Sayulita, a small village that used to be a surf area with a taco stand 17 years ago when I was first there. It’s a charming village with great restaurants now. It’s about 20-60 minutes outside of PVR, depending where you’re staying. Another of my favorite excursions was a day trip to Yelapa, a small fishing village accessible only by boat. Ride there on a party boat and spend a few hours on a secluded sandy beach in a cove with turquoise waters. And of course, there is the famous pirate ship, the Marigalante, that sails nightly and delivers a firework display and cannon shots that can be heard throughout downtown. It’s kinda touristy, but you gotta do it once. It doubles as a sunset cruise! If you’re feeling adventurous, there’s a zipline through the jungle near Mismaloya that is built around the set of Predator, which was filmed there.
If you like local art, there are several museums and local artists out painting and selling their pieces. My favorite places to buy local art are:
- Tierra Huichol—I have 3 of the Katrinas. So special! They will pack them for you to take as a carry on.
- Also check out the glass factory, Mundo de Cristal. They will pack and ship things for you if needed.
There are also plenty of other various activities in Puerto Vallarta that do not disappoint: water sports, boat rentals, cruises, fishing, hiking, golfing, spa retreats, shopping, art, a zoological wildlife park, live music, markets, and more. I’ve mostly been there with a friend or a boyfriend but also solo and once with an incentive group. There’s literally something for everyone.
Puerto Vallarta is one of the most charming places I’ve ever been. Although there are certainly tourist traps to avoid and safety concerns to adhere to as in any city, it’s not a place that has been built up solely for the purpose of tourism. It is a city that thrives on tourism for sure, but it’s a living, breathing city that invites you to explore. It’s a city where you’ll fall in love with the culture, the food, the people, the art, the music,the color, the lights in the hills, the ocean views… and did I mention those sunsets?
